Rain
Our first time riding in a storm just happened to be the first time we crossed the Continental Divide, where water to the east of the divide flows to the Atlantic and water to the west of the divide flows to the Pacific. Both Canada and Montana have been unseasonably wet and cold these past weeks, or so we've been told. As we climbed up the pass, watching the clouds move in from both directions, we knew getting wet was inevitable. It was one day back to the last town, and two days forward until the next…Onward! Into the storm! The gloomy clouds signaled us to get “rain ready” which means a series of water protections must be deployed: seat cover to protect our Brooks saddles, rain cover our seat bags, cameras in their dry bags, and rain jackets to keep our upper halves dry. The majestic moose we passed grazing in the forest didn’t seem to mind the rain, but we will do anything to avoid riding in a downpour, even if it means staying in town an extra half day or hiding under a huge conifer for an hour while it passes. Riding in a downpour just sucks.
The next day we tackled Red Meadow Pass, another 6.5 mile climb to a hauntingly beautiful alpine lake. Low hanging clouds were tangling through the trees as we listened to a muffled sound of a waterfall in the distance. Again a downpour ensued, and at this altitude the temperature plummeted. Huddled under a big Douglas Fir, we tried to keep out of the freezing rain as we sipped our cold instant Folgers to give us a bit of an upper while everything else was looking a little down.
Flathead
Dropping down from Reds Meadow Lake, a glorious 10 mile descent, we entered the Flathead National Forest- named after the Flathead Indians who once inhabited the area.
Dr. Dal Nogare
Thanks to an old friend who noticed we were on the path to Whitefish, put us in touch with the Dal Nogare’s, who let us stay in their home for two nights. A bed for TWO nights in a row was pretty luxurious, especially in their beautiful home set on the farm lands just outside of Whitefish centered directly on the bend of the Whitefish River. Tony and his wife have a small ranch filled with: chickens, ducks, turkey, cows, and their sweet German Shepard, Greta. Tony, is also a fellow outdoorsman and took us for Elk burgers and IPA’s while we discussed his desire to also do The Divide. It was a ultra healing stay to have some much needed rest and relaxation, fresh eggs and raspberries. We were so thankful to have such generous hosts!
Hard days cycling
Reenergized from our break, we easily banged out two 50 mile days back to back…joke! We did do two 50 mile days, but it wasn't easy, each day brought 5-7 mile climbs and although we’re almost two weeks in, our bodies are still adapting to this amount of weighted peddling. Our knees have been hurting and Olivia’s lower back has been giving her grief. We are remorseful to not have made time for previous weight conditioning. Most people don’t talk about the pain, but it’s been top of mind for us both this week.
Jenny & Aubrey
At the end of our second big mile day we stopped at a roadside greenhouse to ask for directions, we were in the mood to treat ourselves to something other than Ramen. Jenny gave us directions to the Hungry Bear, a nice local restaurant, and invited us to stay in her rustic cabin in the back of her property. Jenny’s property faced a field of grazing horses with the Swan mountains looming on the horizon. The cabin seemed ancient- whatever era they would have had an outhouse attached- no longer in use, of course. It now housed all of Jenny’s extra things: a bed, dusty books about Montana wild game and hunting, Native American figurines, and other Montana knick-knacks.
Adventure cycling and our “little iron horses”
As we rolled into Seely Lake the next day, we noticed about 30 tents in the back of a motel. As we peddled closer we noticed every tree had about four to five mountain bikes perched up against it; it was a group of Adventure Cyclers. Adventure Cycling, the creators of the Great Divide route and many other adventure touring routes across America, were doing their annual Montana tour. Bob, the coordinator, invited us to pitch our tent with them, join them for dinner, and listen to their guest speaker. That evening in camp a fur trapper from 1879 came to talk to the group about hunting “buffler” on the open plains of Montana. He was dumfounded by our “little iron horses” with saddles that were way too small. Greg was an awesome actor who taught us a little about Montana history: how the buffalo were snuffed out to snuff out the Blackfoot people and to respect the land and its’ resources.
Tales from the Seat of Our Bikes
Before we left on our trip, we had been reading about Jo and Allen’s worldly cycling expeditions. Their route through India is identical to the one we have been planning, and that journey is just around the corner for us. Just outside of Seely Lake we caught them on the trail and were able to sit down and chat with them. It was tremendously helpful to listen to their experiences in India and cycling the globe. Their enthusiasm was inspiring and their advice comforting. Follow their journey at: http://www.alberttown.co.nz/
We’ve fallen into some what of a routine: waking and packing up by 8:00, cycling till about 12-1:00- with numerous break for wardrobe changes, pee breaks for Olivia’s acorn sized bladder, and snacks, continue to cycle until around 5:00- where we eat dinner, away from where we will be sleeping so no bears will eat us, and then cycling a little further until we find the “perfect” camp spot. Once settled we upload the photos of the day, edit or read if we have the energy and generally pass out by 9-10:00. Repeat. It's nice to start feeling like we have the hang of things and hopefully our bodies will adapt in the coming passes.
